We headed from Samaná to Luperòn on a very calm sea. Ended up motoring most of the way. As we approached the entrance to this very protected harbor, we realized how lucky we were that the seas were calm; even the very slight swell we were experiencing caused some big breakers on the coral reefs surrounding the entrance. We slowly made our way in without issues, and arrived in a completely protected cove littered with mooring buoys, making it near impossible to anchor. We tested a couple of moorings, which were completely entangled in long lines, and covered in growth, but finally found one which it was actually possible to use. At 2 USD per night we couldn’t really complain about the price, but we would have preferred to pay a bit more and in return have more confidence in the mooring – and more swinging room. This is one place where a small boat is a distinct advantage, the moorings are simply put too close together.
We sailed into town and cleared in, visiting no less than five offices in the process, and again we had to pay fees that all seemed to be made up (they are all written down on signs, but paying almost 100 USD to enter Luperòn, when we already payed more than that to clear into the Dominican Republic in Samaná seems a bit steep). But people were nice, so that’s a big plus.
The town itself was lively, with the completely different atmosphere that seems to be in the former Spanish dominated islands. Mopeds and stray dogs were everywhere, and the local longtime cruiser residents were quick to let us know where we could find the best place to buy beer. When asked where to get vegetables they had no idea, though 😉
Our first impression of Luperòn was really good, and we planned to rent a car to get out and see some more of this beautiful and friendly country. But that same night, Esben’s brother called to tell us that their dad, Jens, had suddenly and unexpectedly passed away, and all of our plans were thrown out the window.
The next couple of days were definitely the low point of our travels. We never expected that we wouldn’t be seeing Jens again when we waved goodbye to him in La Gomera a year ago. And getting plane tickets home turned out to be complicated and expensive. But in the end we managed to arrange for Esben and the kids to go home for a week for the funeral, while we decided that I had to stay on board to look after the boat.
When we were reunited, the mood was still absolutely in the dumps, and despite of the winds being a bit stronger than we would have liked, we decided that we wanted to move on from Luperòn and continue onwards to the Bahamas. Luperòn simply had come to represent too much sadness for us.
After checking out by the five different offices, again paying them, we were off in big swell and strong winds. The first day was miserable, but then we made it into lee of the Turks and Caicos Islands, taking the largest of the waves away, and life onboard became easier. After three days, we anchored by Crooked Island in the Bahamas. The water was bluer than we had ever seen, and we were looking forward to a new start in these beautiful surroundings.
To see out most recent position, click here.