Amongst cruisers, one of the most famous anchorages in Brazil is the one by Itaparica. It’s located in the big bay behind the city of Salvador, and is very protected and very pretty. From the marina in Salvador, it was only 12 NM, so even though there was hardly any wind on the day we decided to cross over there, we got out the sails, and slowly sailed off. The little trip ended up taking the whole afternoon, and we arrived in the mooring field just before sunset, in company with a French boat we had met in Salvador.
Itaparica is very quiet, but we so enjoyed being at anchor again, and being able to go for a swim whenever the day got too hot for us. We had installed fans in the boat during our stay in Recife, but tropical Brazil is just so much warmer than what we’re used to, and it’s nice to be able to cool off in the water when we feel like it. We took a walk to the little main square, and had our Sunday dinner there with the rest of town. Afterwards, the eternally hungry Esben and the kids bought some food from a street vendor. We had no idea what they were buying, but to the kids’ delight, it turned out to be grilled cheese.
The days were very relaxed in Itaparica. We spent the mornings doing school work, and the afternoons exploring the area. The town has a water fountain, just by the anchorage, and even though the locals have running water in their houses, they still come to fountain to get their drinking water. We, of course, also went to get our water there, and yes, it was indeed very good water. Plus the fountain was beautiful. Some days, Runa and Mattis made us apple crumble, our favorite cake in the omnia stove top oven. And some days we just went swimming and relaxed.
Runa had talked about getting a haircut for a long time. We had already chopped off most of her hair in Recife, but she wanted it even shorter. In Itaparica, we saw a hairdresser, and decided to go there with Runa and a picture with short hair found on the internet. The hairdresser was a bit hesitant to make the hair as short as Runa wanted, and I ended up finishing the haircut at home. Mattis, of course, also wanted changes to his hair. He decided that he wanted to look like zebra man from LEGO, and got a mohawk. But the effort of getting the mohawk to stand up was too much work for him, so in the end he just had it done up once.
We were anchored next to a sandbank, which was only visible at low tide. Then the fishermen would come and dig for scallops, while visitors brought their drinks and partied in the shallow water. We also went there a few times, Mattis and Runa loved looking for critters in the water, and we soon learned how to find the scallops in the sand like the locals. Time went by very fast this way, and we ended up spending more than a week in this nice place.